The Inside Press

Magazines serving the communities of Northern Westchester

Travel

Head for Tranquility in Montauk

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Article and Photo By Sherry Amatenstein

Montauk, situated at the tip of Long Island’s South Fork, is a mere six miles from the Hamptons scene but the vibe is more chill than chic. While the last few years have, alas, seen the once sleepy fishing village gentrify, at its core Montauk remains a sea of bait shops, pristine beaches, seafood shacks and rolling farmland. Of course the iconic Montauk Point lighthouse, authorized by George Washington, remains a beacon to locals and visitors.

A 60-foot replica of the lighthouse welcomes guests to Montauk Yacht Club Resort & Marina (MYC), the perfect spot for a tranquil long weekend or midweek sojourn. Opened in 1929 and situated on Star Island in Lake Montauk, the Club is renowned for hosting storied families like the Astors, Vanderbilts and Whitneys. More star power from a bygone era: Charles Lindbergh periodically parked his seaplane here!

Much more recently, MYC was dubbed by Yachting Magazine one of the top 10 marina destinations in North America, Mexico and the Bahamas.
montauk ship
After a multi-million dollar sprucing, the 35-acre property has 104, spacious, blue, nautically accented guestrooms, suites and villas. Throw in three pools (two outdoors), a sailing school, four tennis courts, full service spa (hot stone massage, anyone?), and numerous nooks and crannies to sit and ponder the yacht-filled waterfront, and you have nirvana.

Our first stop was to gather sustenance. The resort’s restaurants include The Gulf Coast Kitchen where new Executive Chef Ron Duprat from Top Chef Las Angeles presides. Chef Duprat’s influence is also felt at what quickly became my new favorite hangout- the indoor/outdoor Hurricane Alley where people- and yacht-watching at the 232-slip marina is on the menu while munching delicacies like a lobster and caviar roll with truffle steak fries.

When you tire of looking at the sparkling azure harbor, get on the water courtesy of the Mon Tiki. Choose between booking spots on this eco-conscious 49-person catamaran’s daytime or sunset cruises or indulge in a private charter. If you choose an evening outing, glory in the moment as you watch amazing colors chase each other across the sky.

Other water-based activities at MYC include soaking up the sun at one of the two outdoor heated pools or the small private beach, group surfing or paddleboard lessons, or chartering a fishing boat. Hook something on the latter, and the kitchen will clean, cook and serve your catch.

Activities on land include lounging on the Great Lawn (where every Sunday the Koch brothers–Derek and Daniel of DMK Entertainment Group host a fabulous lobster bake brunch), playing horseshoes or bocce ball, biking around the grounds, strolling along the ocean, cocktail-ing it at the Barracuda Bar, taking a siesta on your private porch or-my favorite- having a treatment at the spa. In addition to the hot stone massage mentioned earlier, consider the divinely decadent foot treatment with a raw sugar and tangerine-infused jojoba scrub. Your tootsies will thank you!

Your inner child will thank you if you end your evening with a bonfire on the beach or gather ‘round the fire pit and make some s’mores while playing charades or warbling some tunes.

While MYC has an elegant, refined air it’s folksy spirit is exemplified by the slogan on your room’s key card: “Welcome home.”

Sherry Amatenstein, LCSW, is an author, therapist, journalist, writing professor and lover of travel and, of course, friendship! Her website is marriedfq.com

I Left my Heart In Sconset

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Article and Photos by Sherry Amatenstein

At my first glimpse of Sconset (as Siasconset is called by natives), for only the third time in my life “it” happened. It is an instantaneous visceral tingle of “connect” with a place. It feels like I’ve known this stretch of land and sea – water is always involved! – my entire life.    skonset

The first two locations that evoked this reaction were The Berkshires in Massachusetts, and Big Sur in California. Those are places I’ve revisited over the ensuing decades when possible. When impossible, I close my eyes and open myself to the sights and feelings engendered by these spiritual homes.

I never thought another place would trigger this long-dormant inner pull.

Then I wandered into Sconset – the soupcon of visual bliss situated on the eastern most tip of Nantucket Island, 30 miles south of Cape Cod.

From a community of fishing shanties built in the 1600s, this village is now home to rose-covered, gray-shingled summer cottages, an unspoiled sandy beach with water that twinkles invitingly, and a 100-year-old narrow lane made of sea shells that is open solely to foot traffic. The center of town has a quaint, one-horse feeling; venture into Sconset Market, where you can score great ice cream. For more substantial fare locals and visitors flock to the Summer House Restaurant.

But the root of my spiritual communion is the uber-spectacular “Bluff Walk”, a walking trail that leads right through the backyards of some the Sconset’s uber-opulent summer homes.

I am certainly not the first to be inspired by this town. Herman Melville’s nantucketeveningIsmael set sail from Nantucket: “There was a fine boisterous something about everything connected with that famous old island.”

There is a copy of Melville’s Moby Dick manuscript in the Whaling Museum (www.nha.org/sites). The museum, sitting inside a former candle factory, houses a 46-foot-long sperm whale skeleton that hangs from the ceiling, and currently offers screenings of Ric Burns’ Nantucket. But for me the highlight was the rooftop observation deck – the perfect point from which to view the harbor and also the reason Nantucket has been coined ‘the gray lady- – a sea of gray signature cedar shake shingle houses.

While Nantucket has a reputation for being a playground for the one percent, its 800 plus pre-Civil War homes led to its designation as a National Historic Landmark. Stroll down Main Street to view some of these homes up close – in particular Three Bricks aka three identical Georgian style brick homes built by one of the richest whale merchants of his time. Though be mindful of the uneven cobblestones.

Nantucket’s shops sport goofy names on sturdy signs – i.e. Annie and the Tees; Three Girls and A Dog. At Isobel and Cleo, located right off the ferry dock, you’ll find luxury handmade knitwear and locally made artisanal products. Abiding by the ‘there’s always room for fudge’ principle Aunt Leah’s Fudge offers free tastings of any flavor. My favorite: crunchy chocolate peanut butter. Best yet: they ship anywhere in the world.

Another irresistible lure is Nantucket’s beaches. Madaket Beach is famous for its rough surf and picture-perfect sunsets; The Jetties, popular for its proximity to town; Eel Point Beach is renowned for a unique assortment of seashells as well as its remote location on the western end of the island.

The B & B we stayed in was anything but remote. 21 Broad is the newly renovated version of the 142-year-old Nesbitt Inn, which was Nantucket’s oldest continuously operating lodging house. The current incarnation, steps from Main Street, blends Olde and New Nantucket.

Well, mostly new. The cozy rooms feature four-poster beds, rainfall, Vitamin-C infused showerheads, and iPad and IPod docking stations with white noise features.

However, the B & B has lovingly restored touches of its ornate Victorian past. And dotted around the lobby are harbingers to the more recent past: a 1400-foot Mahogany Desk and a bin that holds vinyl records that are actually played on the hotel’s turntable!

The breakfast juice bar include scones, cereals, mango smoothies, cheeses and other tantalizing munchies to be enjoyed while sprawled around the spacious outdoor courtyard. There I remained reading and snoozing for much of my stay.

On the last (slightly chilly) night, I sipped champagne, stared into the courtyard’s fire pit and dreamt of my next visit to Sconset so my heart could be stolen all over again.

Sherry Amatenstein, LCSW, is an author, therapist, journalist, writing professor and lover of travel and, of course, friendship! Her website is www.marriedfaq.com

Spa Bliss, Times Two!

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Girlfriend Bonding at the new “Three Stories” at Saybrook Point Inn and Spa

By Sherry Amatenstein and Grace Bennett

And there we were–dancing on a gently rocking private yacht under the most amaze balls sunset ever witnessed (seriously!), cups of Pinot Grigio in our hands. Does this sound like the most romantic evening ever? It was, but of the platonic kind. We are old friends who had yearned for a time to reconnect.

Dining at “Fresh Salt” outside the Saybrook Point Inn and Spa
Dining at “Fresh Salt” outside the Saybrook Point Inn and Spa

Lucky for us, we were invited to sample a Girlfriends Getaway Package at Saybrook Point Inn and Spa, www.saybrook.com, the 25-year-old lush haven located at the mouth of the Connecticut River in historic Old Saybrook. In a prior incarnation, the 82-room Inn was a large hotel and entertainment complex with helipad hosting the likes of Frank Sinatra and Ted Kennedy. These days it’s a genteel, award-winning cushy yet cozy spot where the major stargazing is accomplished by looking skyward.

Our ‘home’ for two precious nights was Saybrook’s regal and spanking new “Three Stories,” located across the street from the Inn. This summer, after a three-year, $250 million renovation, the 19th-century Victorian Italianate estate turned Bazooka Joe bubble gum colored, eight-room guesthouse opened. There was a new paint smell and cozy patio furniture on the rooftop fire patio where one of us kept traipsing out to read, instead being lulled into a snooze.

The rooms (each with a private balcony) at Three Stories are named for prominent Old Saybrook residents such as Katherine Houghton Hepburn–the famed actress’ mother and a suffragette–and Anna Louise James, the first female African-American pharmacist in Connecticut.

Three Stories felt like much more than your typical outpost of  any main resort inn. It was a retreat unto itself, a place we could easily have whiled away all our hours if there wasn’t so much we wanted to see and do. We played pool in the lower level Yale Room (one of us whupped the other!), and drank cocktails over a game of chess by the fireplace in the first floor living room. We couldn’t resist munching on fresh fruit or the delicious homemade muffins that mysteriously kept appearing on a large wooden table by the kitchen.

The amazing “Kate” suite at the spectacular Three Stories, a new accommodation, which opened in July.
The amazing “Kate” suite at the spectacular Three Stories, a new accommodation, which opened in July.

After one too many muffins, we found the motivation to walk across the street to the Inn proper to hit the fitness center. More accurately, to indulge at the newly renovated, state of the art Sanno Spa. The spa has 11 treatment rooms, a Swiss shower, and indulgent treatments that feel like an orgy of muffins for your face and body.

We luxuriated, respectively, in the marine-based treatment “Ocean Memory” and “The Kate”–the spa’s relaxing signature ritual so named as an ironic salute to La Hepburn who was an intimidating presence for decades in the nearby beach hamlet Fenwick.

After our spa debauchery, there seemed no other option than more licentiousness–yup, we made our way to the hot tub and let the water luxuriously massage away whatever sentient thoughts we still possessed.

Eventually, we climbed out, showered and prepared ourselves for being on top of the water–bobbing to the beat of the gentle waves on the 56’ luxury yacht Real Escape, www.chartermotoryacht.com, to enjoy a wild pink and purple striped sunset that left us, well, spiritually spent!

The next morning we resolved to rouse every inch of our mutual willpower to get off-property and sightsee the environs. This could only be accomplished after a (insert your own superlative) Sunday Brunch at the Inn’s four-diamond star restaurant Fresh Salt. Brunch included everything from crepe and omelet making stations to a raw bar, entrees and fresh carved roasts and dips. Even pre-indulging in a decadent desert spread, we grabbed some to-die-for croissants that gave Three Stories’ muffins a run for their money!

Shockingly still able to button our shorts we headed to the car to explore the historic towns along Connecticut’s storied shoreline.  Indeed, the Connecticut River has been referred to as the backbone of New England. We could have rented bikes but one of us can’t ride one sans training wheels. Don’t ask us who.

Old Saybrook, circa 1635, boasts more than 100 historic homes, such as the General William Hart House, which offers tours (860-395-1635).  Other highlights include Harvey’s Beach, the shallow water town beach, www.oldsaybrookrec.com, replete with bathhouse and showers and the Katherine Hepburn Cultural Arts Center, www.katharinehepburntheater.org, aka The Kate, chosen as the Best Small Theater in New England. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, The Kate offers tours as well as an eclectic mix of entertainment–Neil Simon, chamber music, the Nitty Grity Dirt Band. The 250 theater sets here are red, the indomitable actress’ favorite color.

Sunset over the Long Island Sound on a Real Escape Yacht Cruise
Sunset over the Long Island Sound on a Real Escape Yacht Cruise

North of Old Saybrook is ‘younger sister’ Essex, settled in 1648. There are nearly 15 miles of sidewalks dotted with impeccably-preserved Colonial era homes, the Essex Steam Train & Riverboat www.essexsteamtrain.com (toot, toot!), The Connecticut River Museum, www.ctrivermuseum.org, which hosts many events along the water, including a Fall Gala September 20th, and the iconic Griswold Inn, www.griswoldinn.com, opened in 1776 where we succumbed–sigh!–to eating  and imbibing once again.

Another must-visit seaside town is Guilford, settled in 1639, home to The Guilford Fairgrounds, www.guilfordfair.org, a hub for summer activities such as the annual fair to be held September 19th to 21st, and Bishop’s Orchards Farm Market & Winery, www.bishopsorchards.com, a family-run business since 1871.

For us though, ultimately, there was no place like home, Three Stories, where we ended our idyll as it began–on the front porch with steaming coffee, and yes, a muffin for the road during which serious girl talk ensued. The short drive to and from Westchester made reaching and returning from girlfriend bonding nirvana a snap. While it felt tragic to leave, please don’t despair for us–we will be back!

Sherry Amatenstein, LCSW, is an author, therapist, journalist, writing professor and lover of travel and, of course, friendship! Her website is www.marriedfaq.com Grace Bennett is Publisher and Editor of Inside Chappaqua and Inside Armonk Magazines.

Turks and Cacois: The Antidote to Winter

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t-cBy Sherry Amatenstein

You know the “vacations” where you spend all day racing from tourist site to tourist site, morphing after sunset into a partying fool?

Turks and Caicos is not that kind of destination. Practically from the moment you step off the jet onto the runway at Provideniales Airport (the frozen tundra that is New York City now a PTSD-laced memory) and feel the gentle caress of balmy, not blistering sunshine, you will be hooked.

Snail-shaped, 38-mile long Provideniales, known as “Provo”, is the most developed of the 40 islands and cays comprising Turks and Caicos Islands.

This doesn’t mean Jamaica- or St. Thomas-developed. Those two islands, of course, are ‘New York in the Caribbean’. Rather, Turks and Caicos retains the small town feel–albeit with incandescent azure water abutting the 12 miles of velvety white sand that is Grace Bay, a sprinkling of upscale resorts and homes, golf course, restaurants, spas and the opportunity to hear yourself think.

Once settled in at the Seven Stars Resort, there is serious danger of spending the remainder of your stay, if not your life hibernating in this Shangri-La.

Named for the seven stars of the fabled Pleiades constellation, this all-suite luxury resort spread over 22 acres features a beach jacuzzi (beam me up, Scotty), seawater swimming pool and service so genuinely caring, this hardened New Yorker nearly wept with gratitude. Rather than having local children hawking souvenirs on the beach, waiters bring complimentary treats.

Which brings us to the resort’s chef, Kyle Kingrey, newly imported from Beauty & Essex, the Lower East Side jewel, serves Cacois Rum Butter Lobster and conch fritters that alone are worth the trip.

If (when) you need to work off some of this good living, the underwater show beckons. Turks and Caicos is justly heralded for its diving. Over 30 percent of the archipelago has protected status–thus assuring a crystalline view of turtles, spotted eagle rays and more.

January brings the start of the opportunity of several lifetimes–to snorkel or dive with humpback whales off the North West Point of Provo as they migrate toward the Dominican Republic for winter.

Another timing-related viewing opportunity occurs about one hour after sunset three to six nights after the full moon. This phenomenon lasts 15 minutes amid the ebbing tide of the Caicos Bank. What am I talking about? The mating ritual of the glowworms aka Odontosyllis Enolpa that emits a pale green luminescence against the darkening sky. It’s been described as “seeing all the stars.”

More wonder-filled water adventures are available in Turks and Caicos–keeping an eye out for “JoJo the Bottleneck Dolphin,” horseback riding with “Provo Ponies” on the beach and into the shallow waters, and booking a private beach excursion from Provo for a day trip of R and R on a remote cay. Picnic lunch will be included.

Dining is the major activity on Provo when the sun goes down. The current “it” spot for couples on the island, Coco, is situated under swaying coconut palm trees. A more laid back option is Da Conch Shack, dubbed “one of the world’s top 50 beach bars.” Here you can actually watch conch being harvested and shelled.  Martini fanatics should not miss Grace Bay Club’s 90-foot long Infiniti Bar  – with its rum-laced Infiniti Martini and fabulous vantage point to watch the stars come out.

Different types of stars frequent the island –Ben Affleck and Jennifer Garner honeymooned here, as did Eva Longoria and Tony Parker–a 50/50 success record. Best place for celeb spotting is Ananyara, an uber-upscale hideaway.

Probably the most incongruous spot on this low-key island is the Casablanca Casino. Vegas it’s not, but the casino does offers a full complement of black jack, roulette, craps and even poker tournaments.

Perhaps the perfect way to end your island idyll (if end it you must)! is to partake in Seven Stars’ Sunday evening beachside barbecue. Eating at a table under a tent next to the ocean accompanied by music, a bonfire and the magical sound of crashing waves… Life does not get more chill.

When she’s not doing travel writing, Sherry Amatenstein, LCSW, is  a therapist. www.marriedfaq.com

Falling in Love – with St. Croix

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By Michael Kohn

Stay left!  It wasn’t that the rental company was politicking in advance of the upcoming elections–in St. Croix, you drive on the left side of the road. To my pleasant surprise, “stay left” was an easy adjustment to make. In fact, more than a mere driving instruction, it became a metaphor for experiencing life differently than on the mainland, a subtle suggestion to enter the “flow” of island life. The more I drove, the more I succumbed to the charms of this jewel in the Caribbean, a U.S. Virgin Island–no passport required.

A GPS directed us from the airport to Questa Verde Estates, a condo community nestled in the hills above the historic harbor town of Christiansted. The condo stay was courtesy of Rob DeRocker, who invited us to explore the island and the many real estate opportunities available on St. Croix. Admittedly, I was tired after traveling, but once I took in the view from the condo balcony, my energy was restored.  Simply put, the vista was (insert your own superlative): Stunning? Breath taking?  Amazing?

The pristine beaches at Buccaneer Island.
The pristine beaches at Buck Island.

After a quiet night, I awoke with one goal–get to the beach. After some deliberation, we chose Cane Bay as our first destination. We headed out (on the left side of the road) and arrived at the Renaissance St. Croix Carambola Beach Resort on the north shore.  Can you spell white sand, crystal-clear waters surrounded by hills covered in lush, tropical vegetation? It easily could have been a Hollywood movie locale. By the way, all beaches are free, even at the resorts. It’s the law! Also highly recommended is the wonderful beach at The Buccaneer resort.

Although I could have spent the entire day at the beach, we needed to eat. So why not eat@cane bay?  That’s the name of the open-air restaurant right across from the beach just east of the resort. The food was so good we went back twice. On this first visit, we struck up a conversation with three friendly women, one local, sitting adjacent to us. Before long, they told us to get into our car and follow them for a nice surprise at the Domino Club in the rainforest. Although we had no idea where we were going, driving through the winding roads of the rainforest was a delight. Mongoose and iguanas skirt across the road amid majestic mahogany trees draped in tropical vines.

The Domino Club can best be described as a tiki bar. First order of business was a shot of Mamajuana, a concoction of rum, red wine and honey mixed in a bottle with tree bark and herbs. It allegedly has health benefits. It felt good going down anyway.

Our guides then instructed us to buy cans of beer (non-alcoholic) to feed to the pigs. WHAT? Giant hogs jump up on their stalls to take a can of beer from your hand, crush it in their mouths and drink the contents which spray all over before dropping the empty cans for you to put into the trash.  They love it.  We loved it. It’s a must-see.

Stunning Point Udall, the easternmost tip of the United States.
Stunning Point Udall, the easternmost tip of the United States.

We thanked our guides and set out back to the condo.  We got lost.  The island is only 28 miles long and seven miles wide, so getting lost is only temporary. It’s actually a great way to discover the island’s natural beauty. I recommend it. At least don’t fret.

That night, following Rob’s suggestion, we invited one of the island’s most lovely and knowledgeable resources–Kathleen Coates Lafaille–for dinner. We dined at The Blue Moon in Frederiksted, a harbor town on the west end of St. Croix. Our meal was delicious, the restaurant charming, but Kathleen had a surprise in store for us. We walked through a park to the long pier where the cruise ships dock.  Many locals had cast their fishing lines along the pier and were happy to show us their catches. When we got to the end of the pier, there they were in the waters illuminated by the pier lights.  Sea turtles!  Magnificent creatures swimming effortlessly, seemingly waving hello with their fins. It was enchanting. The Crucians are very proud of their sea turtles and their efforts to preserve this endangered animal.

Preservation is a primary theme when you take the absolutely mandatory tour to Buck Island. The Buck Island Underwater National Monument encompasses a small island and nearly 19,000 acres of a coral reef system. A snorkeler’s dream, Buck Island is also home to endangered bird species and sea turtles, which lay eggs on the beach.  Preserving this natural treasure is so important that when a towel belonging to one of the tourists (it was my companion’s–shhh) fell overboard, a crew member jumped into the sea to retrieve it!

Besides the wide variety of water sports like snorkeling, kayaking or just sunbathing, St. Croix offers so much more to do. Whether you want to travel by foot, ATV or horseback, there are many trails to explore.  The architecture of the charming towns of Christiansted and Frederiksted is Danish-influenced. Absorb their charming beauty, walk around and shop duty-free. St.Croix is rich in history and culture, so be sure to take advantage of all the island’s offerings like the fort in Christiansted or street festivals.

Great dining options were plentiful. We enjoyed local cuisine at Harvey’s, a lovely outdoor lunch seaside at the Divi Carina Bay Resort (there’s a casino too) and checked out a couple eateries along Christiansted’s wonderful boardwalk. One night we were treated to Kiki’s fire dancers and delicious food at The Pickled Greek. If only we had more time to sample the other dining options!

Speaking of options, once you visit this island paradise, you may want to stay, or at least return many times. Rob DeRocker, our host, arranged meetings for us with Mark Eckard, an attorney and the volunteer President of the St. Croix Chamber of Commerce, and Ness Fennessey of Calabash Real Estate, so we could explore opportunities on St. Croix.

Mark took us on a tour of Frederiksted on the island’s west end and then all the way to the stunning lookout of Point Udall, the most eastern point in the United States. A number of stops along the way kept our spirits high, especially as I waved at the big Captain Morgan sign. St. Croix is home to both the Captain Morgan and Cruzan rum distilleries.

According to Mark, “St. Croix is more than just a place to visit. St. Croix is a place to live and work. We are the unlikely crossroads for an enormous portion of the world’s broadband internet and telecommunications. St. Croix sits on more broadband capacity than any major U.S. city. Anybody who brags about being able to work from anywhere with a laptop and cell phone could be– and should be–working and living here.” Ness showed us other options including three condo communities which all had their own charms, swimming pools and magnificent views. Of course, buying a condo as a second home doesn’t mean you have to live there full-time. Many owners rent them out. Said Ness, “the fact the island is owned by the U.S. is a benefit for American investors as the tax and law system are based on U.S. systems and buying here does not involve having to partner with a native-islander as it does on some of the other islands.”

Our host, Rob DeRocker, is a condo owner who splits his time between St. Croix and Tarrytown. What are the advantages of a condo? According to Rob, one gets “more space, cooking facilities so you don’t have to eat in a restaurant for every meal and the ease of coming and going.” Rob’s condo at Questa Verde is centrally located, has amazing views and a fantastic pool.

Condos aren’t the only option. You could buy a house. Rob says, “There’s an absolute fire sale on vacation properties and second homes on St. Croix right now. A four-bedroom house on a north shore hill with a spectacular view, $75,000 worth of mahogany furniture and two rental units that would pay the mortgage was listed in 2010 for $1.2 million and recently received an accepted offer for less than $600,000. A three-bedroom condo at Questa Verde is in contract for about $90,000.  For the right buyers, this is an incredible time to at least investigate real estate on St. Croix.”

It was a fantastic trip. One final note: When you greet someone at night in St. Croix, you don’t say hello. You say good night. It’s anticipatory of what’s to come. I like that.

Editor’s Note: As you plan your Saint Croix visit…do check out stcroixcalendar.com and gotostcroix.com for upcoming events, street and music festivals and the like!